Swiss Valais: Holidays in the snow for the whole family!

"I learned so much during these holidays," sighs Linus, eight years old, somewhere near Hanover, after a ten-hour train ride and still not home. He now knows that glaciers are not mountains but ice flows, how the Alps were formed and why the climate is changing. "And I also learned cross-country skiing and snowshoeing." He is almost a little happy that there are now five days of quarantine ahead of us - "I can recover there."

Finally get out again

I'm not a bit exhausted myself. After what felt like an endless time with homeschooling and working from home, I was longing for new experiences. Get out of Hamburg's endless gray and our city apartment without a balcony. Up on the mountains, on the Bettmeralp: located at 2000 meters above sea level below the largest glacier in the Alps, car-free, known for snow security and a particularly large number of sunny days. I wasn't even shocked by the 12 hour journey by train, including five changes. On the contrary: booking the tickets gave me new hope - and in retrospect I would say that I've never been able to recharge my life energy batteries so much in such a short time as in the six days on the Bettmeralp.

This was only partly because the batteries had never been so empty before. Above all, it was because of this magical place, lots of fresh air and the task that we had set ourselves: try out whether winter holidays are nice without skiing, or at least with less skiing. Whether climate-friendly snow activities such as cross-country skiing, sledging and snowshoeing are just as much fun.

Off to the glacier

Not an easy start for an inveterate skier - like I have been since early childhood - and for a family that I have thoroughly infected with my passion. My sister gave the first nudge when I said that we were going to the Aletsch Glacier region in Valais in southern Switzerland: "That's clever, it's better to see the Aletsch Glacier sooner rather than later, who knows how long it'll be around," he joked you. I looked it up: The Great Aletsch Glacier is – currently – almost 20 kilometers long and a good 79 square kilometers in size. Fifty years ago it was almost 130 square kilometers, and in 1863, when it was first measured, it was 163 square kilometers. Like a gigantic river of ice, it rolls from the Jungfrau region into the Rhône Valley, with the ice masses covering up to 200 meters a year.

The glacier itself gives us the second, more powerful nudge: On the first day of skiing, we drive to the Moosfluhjoch, on whose ridge you get particularly close to the glacier, which is part of the Unesco World Heritage Site - the whole mountain moves up to 40 centimeters per year with the ice masses. "40 centimeters! Honestly! That's more than a big ruler!" Joris, twelve years old, marvels and examines the rails on which the gondola mountain station and all the support posts stand so that they can be readjusted regularly. "Honorable!" is currently the biggest compliment that Joris has to give, even bigger than "that bucks mega" or "legendary", which is why he has nothing more to say when we learn from an information board that the glacier in the last ice age, 24,000 years ago was three Eiffel Towers taller than it is today. We google how high an Eiffel Tower is: 324 meters!

Climate-friendly in the snow

No question: what climate change contributes to the melting of such an ice giant is anything but honorable. "Skiing isn't good for the climate, is it, Mommy?" asks Simon, ten years old, dejectedly, and unfortunately I can only sheepishly say yes. That's why the family council decides here, on site, that we want to try out what else is possible over the next five days - climate-friendly in the snow.

For example sledding. The guys know that, because it's sometimes possible in Hamburg, unfortunately only on rather ridiculous hills in the park. The toboggan run from the Moosfluhgrat to Bettmeralp, 319 meters in altitude over 2.7 kilometers, is of a different caliber. With loud jeers, the children throw themselves down the hill. Who is faster, who manages to push the other off the track more often, and who has the most spectacular falls? I get dizzy when I see that. Luckily the kids are soon so far ahead that I can't see them and focus on getting down the mountain myself. I brake so hard that after the tour my boots will be missing half an inch of heel, and I even dismount and walk on the very steep stretches. "Mom, you're a sled loser," Joris says mercilessly when I join my family "an eternity later," he says. Tobogganing, that much is clear, will not be my new winter sport.

Snowshoe hiking is much more environmentally friendly anyway, for which you don't need lifts or groomed slopes. I've often been offered the chance to try it, but I've always declined because I found it to be excruciatingly exhausting, deadly boring, and afraid I'd feel like a hippopotamus in the snow with two clunky plastic pans under my shoes. But now the time has come. We meet up with Dominic, who will lead us, because walking in the untouched winter landscape in the high mountains without knowing the place is not a good idea, not only because of the danger of avalanches.

The kids whine, the adults have fun

Dominic shows us that the snowshoes, which are big but feather-light, have three different modes: rigid, which works well in deep snow, with a flexible heel so you can walk comfortably on hard surfaces, or with a kind of flared heel – as a climbing aid. The children buckle their shoes and initially have a lot of fun sliding around on them. But then we turn onto a somewhat steeper path into the forest - and the whining begins. "Too steep", "too strenuous", "I can't move forward", "the snowshoe is crushing my foot", "I'm sweating", "I'm looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong" - that's how it goes on a tour. It's a pity, because we adults like walking away from the main traffic arteries in the mountains.

It is surprisingly easy to walk up even the steepest slopes - and those who walk so slowly have plenty of time to admire the winter landscape. The sun is giving everything today, the surrounding three- and four-thousanders are gradually revealing themselves from their morning mist, and I am almost humbled by all this beauty around me. If only my sons weren't whining and fighting all around me. "Silence!" I yell, which has little effect, but at least gets her laughing, and then I try to get her excited to feel the different snow conditions under her shoes: how crispy the crust breaks under us, how feathery we are in sink in the fresh snow.

Unfortunately, I can't really score with it, only when Simon discovers an ice hole under a rock in which stately icicles have formed does his mood improve. The children harvest the cones, turn them into wands or ninja swords and lick them with careful tongues. "Fully honorable, such an icicle," says Linus. So we rest until the new toy has melted and then descend past weathered wooden chalets. And to see: Unfortunately, snowshoe hiking will probably not be the new family winter sport either.

"Then we can just leave the winter hiking alone," I say to Stephan, my husband. "No," he says, "we'll do it now! The way over the glacier ridge is definitely beautiful." Surprisingly, the children also like hiking without snowshoes. Is it because they can run on the prepared path, are far ahead of us, and then when they wait, make snow angels or drawings in white? Or the "epic" (Joris) snowball fight, parents against children, which, because the splendor here is very crusted, is more of a snow plate fight, with discs that you can throw like brittle Frisbees? In any case, no party gives the other even half a meter of front line, and only when we are all soaked and every family member has been soaped at least once while weeping loudly do we hike on, slightly exhausted.

Only on the last day do we try the most obvious thing: cross-country skiing. Gentle, close to nature, a real sport. But I'm skeptical. When I was a child, my parents forced us to go cross-country skiing. Although: My sister didn't have to be forced - she really enjoyed it. I hated it. Because my father thought I was too chubby and not fit enough, I had to run laps. I cheated as best I could, taking shortcuts where I thought I couldn't be seen and hiding in the woods so my athletic father could overtake me twice at what seemed plausible places. And now I should voluntarily return to the cross-country ski run? phew!

My skiing past is paying off

We meet Maria Minnig on the cross-country ski trail at Bettmersee. The 29-year-old patiently shows us how to extend the gliding phases in a classic style and how to skate without constantly crossing the skis. The technique of skating didn't exist when I was a kid. Because it works in a similar way to how it works on alpine skis, I learn it even faster than the majority of my family who are sporty. And - surprise! – even the classic version is easier for me than the others. My body obviously remembers the correct alternation of pressure on the ski (for pushing) and relief (for gliding). Stephan, in particular, watches enviously as I pull away.

The ambitious Joris soon gets the hang of it, catches up to me and then gives everything to chase me away. What he manages to do until it goes slightly downhill: he loses control of his speed, tumbles into the snow, loses a ski and only with difficulty gets back up. He scolds like a sparrow, especially since his brothers and Maria have overtaken us in the meantime. Soon after, first Stephan and Simon get bored, shortly afterwards Linus and finally Joris, who thinks he has learned enough. Too bad, I would have liked to have continued. At my pace, as a kind of gliding walk, I really like cross-country skiing - who would have thought? Couldn't that be our new family sport? The children are skeptical: "You can do that for an afternoon, then it's fun," says Joris. "But for a whole week? All day? It doesn't buck enough for that!"

I'm afraid that in future we'll have to choose between the plague (no more skiing) and cholera (don't give a damn about the climate) when we see the advertising poster for a bakery: "Today cholera" is written there. How funny, I think, so no Corona today until Maria enlightens us: "Cholera" is practically the national dish of Bettmeralp, a puff pastry cake filled with leeks, potatoes and cheese - all the products that the alpine people used to be able to produce up here. No question, we'll try the cholera.

Also in the future on the alp - but more environmentally friendly

And probably also in terms of winter holidays. Because even on the Bettmeralp we haven't given up skiing completely. Before and after our test activities, we all happily ran down the slopes, all five of us happy and content. Giving up the sport forever seems like too much of a sacrifice. But on the return journey on the train, somewhere beyond Frankfurt, the family council decides: If we go on a skiing holiday in the future, we'll always take the train, which is climate-friendly and also less stressful than by car. Joris says: "And we always live in a holiday apartment, that's better than in a hotel with a swimming pool. We can do without the swimming pool!" Simon says: "We can go cross-country skiing more often. And go sledging. And hike. If necessary, also with snowshoes." Linus, who is already very tired, says: "Next time we'll just go on winter vacation at the North Pole. You have to do cross-country skiing there because there are no mountains. And there's always snow, so the climate doesn't change."

And because I'm so wonderfully relaxed after our week in Switzerland, I'll just let him believe that for today.

Anja's travel tips for the Swiss Valais

Our winter trip took place at the beginning of March, when in Switzerland, unlike in Germany, accommodation facilities were open under strict conditions due to the pandemic, but restaurants and many indoor attractions had to remain closed. That's why the tips for this story are less extensive than you are used to from BRIGITTE.

ACCOMMODATION Carving 2 apartment. We stayed in this spacious, very high quality furnished apartment (8 beds in 3 bedrooms). It is only 150 meters from the gondola station, you can ski to/from the house. From the balcony you have a great view over the Rhone Valley to the three-thousanders of Piedmont. The apartment is very tastefully furnished with lots of wood, concrete and design furniture, there is plenty of storage space in the closets and even a whirlpool! From approx. 193 euros/night (Bettmeralp, bettmeralpferien.ch).

Hotel Bettmerhof. Photographer Jens Schwarz stayed at this hotel at the top of the village and liked the rooms designed with wood and natural materials. However, he was particularly impressed by the evening half-board menu and the large sun terrace in front of the house in the afternoon. DR/F from approx. 95 euros (Bettmeralp, Tel. 027/928 62 10, bettmerhof.ch).

ENJOYBättmer Hitta. This hut has almost achieved cult status, where there is not only good food (main courses from around 17 euros), but also a good atmosphere - even when the terrace is closed due to Corona and everyone has to eat their food sitting in the snow . There is usually a snowtubing area for children on the side of the sun terrace - our sons were very disappointed that they were denied this fun because of Corona (between Bettmeralp and Fiescheralp, east below the mountain station of the Schönbiel chairlift, Tel. 027/928 41 81) .

Chüestall. A living cow has never put its hoof in the "Chüestall", so the name of the stylish mountain restaurant is a bit misleading. But there is very good meat (approx. 41 euros) - also from beef - also rösti (approx. 24 euros) and of course raclette (approx. 10 euros). In winter, the "Chüestall" is famous for its fondue evenings followed by a torch-lit descent and the well-stocked snow bar (between Bettmeralp and Riederalp, east of the Moosfluh chairlift route, Tel. 027/927 15 91, chuestall-blausee.ch ).

Pizzeria Picco Bello. The second restaurant of the "Bettmerhof" is known for its pizzas in wagon wheel format (from around 17 euros). There is a large selection and they are all delicious. Perfect for all holiday apartment guests: deliveries are also made - punctually to the minute, by snowmobile (Bettmeralp, Tel. 027/928 62 10, bettmerhof.ch).

SHOPPINGDerby Sport. It's almost superhuman how friendly and lightning-fast the Derby Sport staff handle the rental business, even when it's very busy. The rental items are in top condition, from wooden sleds (approx. 8 euros/day) to snowshoes and racing carvers (approx. 62 euros/day), there is everything – you can also buy it in the adjoining shop and there is a fine selection of sports fashion and accessories ( Bettmeralp, Alpmatten, derby-sport.com).

Butcher shop Franzen. Here you can buy delicious Bündnerfleisch, sausages and steaks, fondue mixes, raclette cheese, wine and delicatessen. Competent advice, friendly and reliable service (Bettmeralp, Hauptstr. 147).

Bakery Imhof. Overwhelming selection of freshly and locally baked rolls, breads and "Gipfeli" (croissants), as well as pastries, cakes and tarts. And the Bettmeralp specialty "cholera", a puff pastry cake filled with leeks, potatoes and cheese (Bettmeralp, Alpmatten, cafe-imhof.ch).

EXPERIENCEskiing. "Aletsch Arena" is the name of the ski area that stretches from Fiescheralp to Riederalp, with 104 kilometers of slopes and 35 lifts. Typical for a glacier ski area, the slopes are rather flat and there are many pull trails, but also several challenging slopes. The beauty of the landscape is overwhelming, the views of the glacial river, which you have in a number of places, the Matterhorn, which flashes again and again in the south, and of course the panorama of Mönch and Jungfrau from Viewpoint Eggishorn (ski pass from approx. 33 euros/day, there are discounts for families).

snowshoeing. Snowshoe hiking is so easy that theoretically everyone can go it alone, on the edge of the groomed slopes or on marked winter hiking trails - to avoid the risk of avalanches. Of course, it is more fun in the untouched nature with a guide. The tourism association regularly offers guided snowshoe hikes, e.g. B. every Thursday through the Aletsch Forest and via the Riederfurka back to the Riederalp. Price approx. 23 euros (aletscharena.ch).

cross country skiing There are a good seven kilometers of groomed trails in the Aletsch Arena. If you want more, you have to go to nearby Goms - with more than 100 kilometers of cross-country trails.

winter hiking. 72 kilometers of groomed winter hiking trails are available in the Aletsch Arena, from which 40 four-thousanders can be admired. The region has rightly been a UNESCO World Heritage Site for more than 20 years - at least I took my breath away from so much beauty when looking at this mountain landscape.

Sledging. Whether from Moosfluh 2.7 kilometers to Bettmeralp or from Fiescheralp 13 kilometers to Lax: There are slopes for every taste in the Aletsch Arena.

herbal course. And if the weather is bad? If you attend a "herbal witches" course with Steffi Mattig. Children and adults alike mix enthusiastically their own sports ointment from fragrant oils, tree resin and dried alpine herbs, which then heals minor wounds and especially muscle tension for a year. Magic! Two hours from approx. 42 euros p. P. (Bettmeralp, Tel. 079/725 21 46, steffis-chritter.ch).

IF I HAD KNOWN I wouldn't have thought I would enjoy cottage holidays in winter, cooking dinner after a long day outside seemed too stressful. In Switzerland, however, most holiday apartments have a raclette set and fondue pot ready - nothing easier than getting supplies of cheese, potatoes and dried meat on the first day, which will carry you Swiss-like through the week.

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